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Basher
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Member#: 165 Location: Registered: 09-03-2003 Diary Entries: 18
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28th July 2003
Windsurfing: Greek Islands Wind Direction: Wind Stength: Surf / Sea State: Air Temperature: Sea Temperature: Weather: Max Speed: Distance Covered:
Mykonos
MYKONOS
This is a Travel article about the Greek island of Mykonos - a windsurfing
destination which used to be in the Club Sportif brochure but which , for
some reason, is not featured any longer...
I've already posted this on the Boards website, but people seemed to like
it... so I'm reproducing it here.
Windsearch in Mykonos
I'm just looking at my holiday snaps from Mykonos and there's a picture of
me on a golden sandy beach apparently herding several cows towards some
worried-looking Germans.
But more about that later.
We checked in at Gatwick at 5am to find the only other windsurfer in the
queue was my old mate Nik Baker, although it turned out he was travelling
on to Rhodes for the Mistral dealers’ conference. Nik's had to miss the
Canaries events this year due to a foot injury, although he seems tobe
walking OK now. He said to check out Ftelia Beach on Mykonos, which is a
well-known wave spot. I couldn't bring myself to tell Nik that my Mom had
told me all about the island she'd visited in the 1960s and 1970s. And that
I was apparently conceived in Mykonos. Was this in fact a pilgimage for me?
Nah. We're just going windsurfing.
As we landed on Mykonos we could see this small island is a little gem,
even by Greek island standards. The main town encircles the port with a
cobweb maze of narrow streets full of cute shops, restaurants and bars. All
the buildings are simply painted with white walls and only the window
frames, doors and
balconies adding a vibrant splash of colour. Bougainvillaea and hibiscus
plants sprout from pots at every corner on streets surfaced with painted
crazy paving. Fresh fish and flowers are sold on the quayside each morning
and vegetables are delivered to the houses on the back of a donkey. It's
all very twee but actually genuine. I suppose you could say Mykonos town
(or 'Chora') is like St Ives in Cornwall, but bathed in constant sunshine,
and dressed for a wedding.
Our intention had been to stay on Mykonos for just a few days and then
travel on to other islands but we ended up with a good deal in a hotel that
overlooked the harbour and which had one of those infinity pools from where
you could watch the sunset with a cocktail in your hand. They played
chill-out music from 'Cafe Del Mar' and the local equivalent .The
non-windsurfers in our party were to take up residency by this pool and we,
the more active members of our crew, would just have to be grateful for the
free rein this would offer us. We rented one of those Suzuki jeeps, 4 wheel
drive but with an engine like a sewing machine. In 7 days we must have
driven round the island several times but we only put 20Euros of fuel in
the tank – some measure of how small the place is.
Mykonos is more of a party island than one solely geared up for
windsurfing. But it's more like Cannes or Capri than Falaraki, Aiya Napa,
or San Antonio. More club 25-45 than club 18-30. The people on our Gatwick
flight (several hairdressers?) were not particularly representative of the
crowds who flock to Mykonos in summer. Most people arrive by ferry or
yacht, and several touched down at the aiport in private jets and
helicopters. We gave up trying to work out what nationalities they were but
clearly the jet set from Athens were joined by the equally-well-dressed
crowds from Italy, and there were loads of other Europeans aswell. Lots of
Americans too, plus the obligatory parties of Japanese, roving in packs,
each with one eye glued to the video camera viewfinder. Although most
tourists were dressed in a casual, beach-life way, we did not see a
football shirt all week. Or a plate of chips. Or drunk people carrying cans
through the streets. There is nightlife
aplenty in Mykonos town but this is centred around small bars and eateries.
For the bigger dance night I went over to Paradise Beach where they held a
pool-side foam party to celebrate July 4th (and I have vague memories of
toasting the sunrise there before someone carried me home).
I didn't do that too often tho. A bottle of local beer costs 4 Euros in a
Mykonos bar (Amstel or Budweiser is 5 Euros) and the garden-set restaurants
are expensive too – so you can easily blow your week's budget in one
night. We found the best way to control our spending was to stock up with
food and drink from the supermarket where prices were at least as cheap as
in the UK. The most expensive thing you can do is the obvious one; Pick a
restaurant next to the water's edge, order the main course of fish (which
is priced by the kilo) and wash it down with several bottles of wine and
sparkling water etc. But hey. You're on holiday...
You can actually eat lunch in Mykonos town quite cheaply because the place
is deserted during the day as everyone heads off to the south-facing
beaches on the other side of the island. Most go to these beaches because
they are sheltered from the wind! Needless to say, we didn't.
There are several beaches to windsurf from in Mykonos. Without a car you
can take the bus across the island or else launch off several of the towns
local beaches; Tourlos beach is as good as any, although the hill and
cruise-liner moorings upwind can make the winds a bit gusty there. There's
also a car park just to the south of the famous 5 Mykonos windmills from
where you can walk down to a small cove to launch into clean winds and open
seas with some rolling waves. Should you break anything on either of these
two beaches you would only end up safely downwind on another beach
called... (ooops!I'll have to look up the name.) You can also launch from
there.
We had some dodgy weather passing through on the day we arrived which
brought up hot southerly winds for a day or two until the northerly Meltimi
reasserted itself – but I sailed on 5 days out of 7.
I liked Ftelia beach a lot and used a 7m, 6m and my 5.2 there. On the
windier day it was indeed wavey but the swell was downwind and only good
for tricks, rather than riding. It needs to blow strongly there for several
days before it really goes off. Usually this is during August and we were
there in early July. On moderate days Ftelia is a nice beach for
snorkelling, swimming and there's shelter out of the wind to one side for
sunbathing. But our non-windsurfers found the lack of food and loo
facilities annoying. The party favourite beach was called Panormos which is
sited up the bay from Ftelia and is shelted by a big hill so the launch is
gusty until you get a long way out. Great for sunbathing and snorkelling
tho. And there's a fabulous restaurant there where the tables are sheltered
by camouflage netting and old parachutes (from Nam?). There are drifwood
sofas to lay on and even a bed with scatter cushions. This is one cool
place to hang out. Broken wave boards frame the door. The waiters and
waitresses are dressed in white and the food is scrumptious. The DJ plays
more chill-out stuff and Buena Vista Social Club. There's a cocker spaniel,
a wire-haired terrier, and even a pet piglet wearing a tartan collar. Said
pig/Babe peed on my harness. I warned him I’d get my own back next year.
By eating him.
Oh yeah. Then there's the main windsurfing beach over at Kalafati. It's a
Fanatic Centre and well run with lots of new kit of all sizes (I'll have to
check my photos but I think they've got a website ; www.pezi-huber.com).
The swiss guy Andy, who works there came by to say hullo, after i sped past
him on my Hypersonic.
The wind is offshore at Kalafati but this means it's good/ flat for
beginners on the inside with most intermediates blasting way out to sea
along the coastline. I stayed closer in and preferred to play the streaks
of gusts, with the HyperSonic allowing me to keep planing thro the lulls
when most others slowed to a halt. What you do is look over your shoulder
to check what's coming and gybe back rather than sail on into a big lull. I
really enjoyed sailing at Kalafatis but I imagine others might find it
annoyingly gusty. It's a pretty beach tho and you can park in front of a
cafe where there are free parasols (the only free thing we found in
Mykonos?) offering some shade for sunbathers.
When it's not blowing and you don't want to eat or party there are still
unusual things to do on Mykonos. Ano Mera is the town in the centre of the
island where the real people live. There's a cute town square and a
magnificent monastery with a chapel you must see the inside of. The outside
of the church is so simple and the interior dramatically ornate. They have
a small souvenire shop too where you can buy greek Orthodox-style icons at
a fraction of the price you pay for the same kitsch in Mykonos Town.
On our last morning we got up early and went on the boat trip to Delos.
Many millenia ago this small Island is said to be the birthplace of various
Greek gods and first became a place of worship and later developed into the
main trading post in the Agaean. At one stage, 30,000 people lived there
before invaders and pirates ransacked the place and it fell into decline.
The remaining ancient ruins there are truly amazing but you need a few
hours to take it all in and to visit the museum too.
The 9 am boat meant we were outa there by lunchtime and, back on Mykonos, I
grabbed the Suzuki and headed back to Kalafatis to spend two great hours on
the Hypersonic and my 6m. On arrival I only vaguely noticed a burnt out
car, still smouldering up a narrow lane. Some poor tourist's engine had
caught fire that morning, apparently.
Later on as I was de-rigging, there was a huge commotion as a farmer was
trying to get his herd of cows past the still-hot car and into the shed for
milking. The cows were having none of it, so the farmer jumps into his van
to push the frightened cows. Cows then stampede out of side lane, across
seafront road and, rather than heading to milking shed, stumble straight
onto the beach where are number of plump tourists are snoozing in the late
afternoon sun...
I have never seen people move so quickly... One bloke jumps up and holds up
a red beach towel, confronting a confused cow. He must have been reading
Hemmingway.
The farmer comes running onto the beach but the cows are scattering
everwhere, many urmm depositing trails of poo across the sand. You have to
know that there are several windsurfboards and sails on this beach... and
so we all jump in to help. I get one cow cornered and I've got it backing
up away from my board but behind there's a German tourist's sail which he's
left in the shade next to a tree. I just manage to stop the cow from
trampling over the sail but not before he's deposited a cow pat. (And yes,
it was a Gun sail).
The cows eventually leave the beach but then choose to run into someone's
garden and the ensuing row with the irate homeowner is hilarious to watch.
I think I was still laughing on the plane home.
Today, I really wish I could have stayed on Mykonos for longer. I suppose
it's a bit like
Brighton and so I felt comfortable there and was able to both sail and
enjoy time with my friends who are not windsurfers. And It's not usually
windy here in summer, is it?
Basher
PS My mom's favourite album is a Joni Mitchell one which apparently is full
of songs she wrote in Mykonos. One song starts; "The wind is in from
Africa, last night I couldn't sleep..."
Kinda weird going there for me, but I'll be there for longer next year, for
sure. Cheapest deals via www.firstchoiceholidays.co.uk
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